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Should wine be priced like CDs?

by Oliver Styles on October 25th, 2010

Vega-Sicilia's greatest hitsI want to advance a particular thesis that will, I’m sure, be very difficult to stomach for some but, I believe, not so difficult to imagine. In my view, wine is cultural. Not simply in the sense that it is an identifier for nationalities or regions, but that it is a daily enjoyment and a renewed pleasure, a necessary aspect of our life. It is neither indulgence nor trepidation. It is of the same magnitude as books and music and film.

So why can it not be priced as such? Imagine your local wine retailer selling her or his entire range of wines at between £9.99 (€11 , $15) and £20 (€22 , $31). You might have to pay more for a box set, but those would be the extremities of wine pricing. Imagine the opening up of the wine trade. Imagine the increase in interest. Imagine the increase in publications, like music magazines, dedicated to recent releases.

Would it increase consumption (while at the same time making the health lobby’s minimum pricing debates totally redundant)? Would it increase interest? Would it totally revolutionise the wine world? Probably. Would it happen? Highly unlikely. There needs to be enough interest in it, from consumer to producer.

The only issue is that most wines have a limited production thus regulations concerning how much is distributed, and to who, would have to be put in place – governments, or very powerful international/national bodies, would essentially have to take over the wine industry distribution system. But in many countries this is either already in place or a de facto state of affairs.

And while limited production is a concern, output is not. Even accounting for poor weather, estates, domaines and caâteaux, have a yearly output, unlike writers (Dame Barbara Cartland notwithstanding), musicians or directors.

A wishful dream, perhaps, but think of the issues it would create. Where would the market for NV Champagne stand – indeed where would the entire market for Champagne stand? Demand for top Bordeaux would be very high, of course, but after a few years I think even the most ardent fan would start to try a few other regions.

But the most interesting aspect of this idea is to imagine who would object to it, and why.

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